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February 2012 Restaurant Review

PALM BEACH SOUTH

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Ovenella
Exquisite Italian Cuisine Realized
to the Highest Standards

By Arnold Leir

A Mizneresque exterior enhanced with a towering campanile houses this new arrival which is undoubtedly one of the finest Italian venues to open in Boca Raton. Crystal chandeliers, a dazzling bar and displays of modern art create a vibrant cosmopolitan setting for the cuisine at Ovenella. Executive Chef Mennan Tekeli ( formerly of Max;s Grille, Prezzo, etc) utilizes superlative ingredients and techniques to produce unrivaled signature dishes.

Restaurateur Fernando d'Avila launched this Boca destination to function as a source of upscale Italian delicacies. His incredible legacy draws upon his family's two hundred plus years of hospitality accomplishments. His kitchen delivers a spectrum of dishes from the classical repertoire inspired by the bounty of the Mediterranean and consistently modulated by the contemporary style of Chef Tekeli.

For starters, nibble on the crisp Arancini ($8), cylindrical pockets of pesto risotto energized by a sensuous Bolognese sauce. Each portion draws upon the savoriness of ruby red pomodoro sauce fringed with a gorgeous green infused olive oil. The Tri Colore Salad ($10) blends colors and flavors with remarkable finesse. A dynamic champagne-mustard vinaigrette invigorates a bounty of mixed greens, sliced pears, endive and a mantle of gorgonzola tossed with crunchy hazel nuts.

Although only a few days into the New Year, we were still imbued with the holiday spirit. So apparently were the chic, well groomed patrons who were sailing through an assortment of enticing entrees and Ovenella's selection of premium vintages. The majestic bar adds a serene, harmonious touch and is the focus for the weekday Happy Hour (5 to 7 pm) offering opulent cocktails, wines and its own modestly priced scrumptious menu.

Succulent gigantic shrimp command center stage in the masterful Angry Prawns ($26). How can anything be angry resting on a heaping portion of satiny orzo primavera and perfectly sauteed green leafy vegetables? More happiness can be found with the Lobster and Crab Ravioli ($26) bathed in an ethereal she-crab sauce. Lush wilted spinach and frizzled leeks added the crowning touches.

Echoing the same panache, the Grilled Skirt Steak ($26) succeeded on all counts: the crafted citrus and ginger marinade, fresh sliced truffle-parmesan fries, the delectable sauteed of escarole and spinach plus the swath of invigorating salsa verde.

From starters to entrees, all our cravings were substantially satisfied. It only remained to conclude with the stunningly constructed Apple Tart ($10), a phyllo based, fresh apple covered pastry topped with ground cinnamon and cinnamon ice cream.

Reduced priced dinner items plus panini and pizzas (prepared in a wood burning oven) are available on the lunch menu. Check out the website at www.ovenella.com.


Ovenella
499 South Federal Highway         
(Tel) 561-672-7553
Lunch and dinner




PALM BEACH CENTRAL NORTH

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Fiorentina
A Chic Venue Showcasing Elegant Italian Cuisine and Fine Wines

By Arnold Leir

Lake Worth's Fiorentina hums with style at every quarter. The dining room is beautifully decked out with a sleek bar, plush booths and  modern paintings, all decorated in lively shades that make the lavish space invitingly intimate. Owner Daren Houghtaling starts dinner  at 5 pm, a tad early for some, but ideally suited for our Saturday rendezvous. Lake Avenue can be hectic on weekends, so reservations are a sure means of assuring a hassle free dinner.

Service is eminently efficient, engaging, and exceptional - many other "e" words come to mind, but it's essential A+. You are never left in limbo, sequence of courses is unerring and the short run from the open kitchen to the table guarantees proper temperatures. Even when there is a full house, the staff is always cognizant of your needs.

The two main thrust of Fiorentina are aimed at providing thoroughly delicious and exciting experiences. As an osteria, count on a range of upscale signature dishes designed to pique your interest. Innovative, delectable starters, salads, grilled pizzas, fresh pastas and enticing entrees with flavors sourced from different regions of Italy are guaranteed to generate a great deal of enthusiastic chatter at the table.On the other hand, as an enoteca, the house features a serious selection of wines from well known vintners as well as smaller independents. There are no minor players here "all vintages are first class and reasonably priced. Quatro Mani Montepulciano ($9/glass) resonates with rich, subtle tonalities while  Coposaldo Pino's Pinot Grigio ($7/glass) sparkles with regal fruit nuances. The food is delightfully elegant, with presentations trading on color and form. Creamy burrata is paired with tomato, roasted red pepper, fresh basil and olive oil to create a galaxy of flavor that merit this Caprese ($15) a set of its own stars. Incomparable aromas dominate the Vongole Marechiero ($13). Dozens of bite sized clams are layered into a huge bowl generously endowed with a scrumptious seasoned wine tinged sauce.Mains show the same attention to details. Branzino ($26) is a Mediterranean favorite presented thoroughly filleted with accents of fresh tomato, olive oil, and capers. Veal Marsala ($24) features tender cutlets topped with a haunting sauce packed with exquisite mushrooms. Each entree includes a generous portion of chunky mashed potatoes crowned with superlative sauteed spinach. The side of Broccoli Rabe($7) seemed so appealing- we ordered it, and it was fantastic.

The homemade Tiramisu ($8) was creamy and flavorful. It was amazing how quickly it disappeared. More delicious adventures await at the upscale Happy Hour (11:30 am-5:30 pm). For more information about this stunning venue, log onto http://fiorentinarestaurant.com/

Fiorentina
707 Lake Avenue, Lakeworth, FL 33460
(Tel) 561-588-9707
Lunch and Dinner



BROWARD

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2 Georges at the Cove
With or without a yacht,
it's where you want to be


By Arnold Leir

Acclaimed Two Georges restaurant at the Cove in Deerfield Beach is beautifully decked out (no pun intended) with colorful nautical artifacts. The indoor and patio accommodations are comfortably spectacular. The lure of the sea is a major draw for proprietor Steve Scaggs eye-popping food and hospitality.

Waterside dining has a unique appeal. Perhaps it's the sense that the seafood served here travels from ocean to pan utterly pristine and unsullied by preservatives. The scripted  sign on a service door boldly proclaiming "Fresh Fish Delivery" is reassuring as is the line of magnificent yachts with their long fishing poles.

The lofty interior is a mix of enchantment and informality. Impeccable service is the norm - the engaging staff never fails to deliver timely service. Seafaring patrons have the option of mooring their yacht or dinghy to the 300 foot of dockage.

Is it only the tourists that "ooh" and "ahh" each time they see a majestic sloop glide by? At our table, however, all eyes were riveted on the Planters Punch ($12) served in a prodigious goblet that traveled around the table ritualistically. The blend of three rums, juices, grenadine and sour was awesome.

The cuisine oozes with panache. Spicy Bahamian Conch Chowder ($4.25/cup) is generously packed with seafood, many shades of fresh veggies and a perky broth. Clams Casino ($12) is another compelling starter. A quintet of top neck mollusks collaborates with savory bacon, butter and fragrant garlic.

Stepping away from the surf momentarily, we called for the Two Georges Waterfront Salad ($13.99) which would be a sensation on or off the waterfront. Irresistible textures and flavors are bound together by a sprightly tomato basil dressing.

Main courses also impress. Seafood Pasta ala Vodka ($19.99) is an accomplished feast of shrimp and scallops sauteed gently and tossed over angel hair pasta. A luxurious vodka sauce enriches the entire ensemble generously topped with lump crab meat.

Standards remain high at every turn. Jumbo Fried Shrimp ($18.99) are crisp masterpieces elevated a notch with an optional infusion of coconut (add $1). A side of tasty rice pilaf provides another boost.

The Five Layer Chocolate Cake ($6.99) is a stellar baker's creation in dark chocolate covered with whipped cream and berries. Depending on your schedule, you can order scrumptious specials from 11am to 3 pm for only $8.99. Early Birds are available Monday to Friday until 6 pm.

Enjoy the camaraderie during Happy Hour from 4 to 7pm, Monday thru Friday (this is the World Famous one). Live music on the weekends, 19 flat screens for favorite sports plus scheduled events and tournaments are just part of the Two Georges bonanza. To learn more, log on to www.twogeorgesrestaurant.com/thecove.

2 Georges
1754 S.E. 3rd Court, Deerfield Beach                    
(Tel) 954-421-9272
Lunch and Dinner

 
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