RESTAURANT REVIEW by Arnold Leir

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PALM BEACH SOUTH

Le Val de Loire

An Exquisite Gem Serving Outstanding French Fare

It was 3 pm when we arrived at Le Val de Loire in Deerfield Beach's Cove Shopping Center. The hours between lunch and dinner are my favorite because the staff is unhurried, and the dining room is devoid of chiming cell phones.  On this occasion, Chef/proprietor Fa-brice Laurent was at liberty to meet us and guide us through the intricate details of the dinner and wine menus. The refined, but relaxed ambiance was the perfect setting for the sumptuous meal that followed.

Traditionally, a wine roster in a French restaurant is usually 100% Gallic varietals, but with the severe dip in the economy and the Euro soaring in value, domestics have made slight inroads. However, the Chef's selection is worthy of your attention. Charles Deveaux's Sauvignon Blanc flows with the utmost grace while Chateau Fontalem L'Auriolle Bordeaux Superior epitomizes the power and complexity of such blends.

The restaurant's two-page menu provided a glimpse of the dinner as well as the lunch roster of inspired crepes. These delicacies explain why the exterior signage has been expanded to include the word "creperie".

Crunchy fresh bread is addictive, and paired with wine yields a feast. That is why we never ask for a second basket. The arrival of our mini-tureen of Soup de Poisson($6.95) redirected our attention to the scrumptious broth accompanied by servings of shredded gruyere, rouille and toasted rounds. Our ever-attentive waitress demonstrated how to combine the spread, cheese and toast into flavorful rafts that were to be dunked into the soup to generate pure ecstasy. Fortunately, we did save a few snippets of bread to dip into the pool of the fragrant elixir surrounding the Foie Gras Chaud aux Raisins($12.95). The harmonizing of fresh grapes with succulent foie gras was masterful.

Daily specials, described in detail by the servers, complement many favorites such as the crisp Roasted Ducking a l'Orange ($19.95) bathed with a dynamic citrus reduction. Chicken, beef and lamb make their appearances as well as an abundance of fish dishes. Expertly cooked Filet of Sole Meuniere ($16.95) has a diaphanous coating that enhances the fragile richness of the seafood. All our mains were served with a trio of adroitly crafted sides.

Don't leave without trying a few of the Chef's superb desserts. The Tropical Crepe ($5.95) folds in fresh strawberries and bananas into a fragile crepe topped with a scoop of orange sherbet. Profiteroles ($5.95), a trio of pastry shells packed with ice cream, come with a copious supply of chocolate sauce to be poured over the puffs.

To taste some of the Chef's finest at bargain prices, take advantage of the three course Sunset Dinners served from 4:45 to 6 pm.

Cove Shopping Center    
1576 SE 3rd Court
(Tel) 954-427-5354

Lunch: weekdays: 1:30pm
Dinner: Mon-Sat: 4:45 pm to close

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PALM BEACH (CENTRAL NORTH)

Toscany Steak House
and Pizzeria

Offers an Eclectic Menu of Refined Dishes

It takes a great deal of courage to launch a restaurant, especially a non-chain independent, in this floundering economy. Five imagi-native entrepreneurs recently com-bined forces to open Toscany Steak House and Pizzeria on a bustling part of Sample Road (a short distance west of University) in Coral Springs. With remarkable insight, they managed to snare Chef Gaetano Pesce whose boundless talent makes a trip to this venue utterly rewarding.

Our evening's vibrant hostess, proprietor Claudia Guillen, exuded a charm that not only made us feel welcome, but also set the tone for an exhilarating experience. In addition, the front of the house team were self-assured and knew exactly how to make patrons feel at home.

The lofty dining room with its crisp, white linens and recessed lighting creates an ambiance that is both contemporary and inviting. Spacious booths plus an uncluttered array of tables provide comfort as well as privacy. Plasma screens set high above the floor supply dynamic images that contrast with enlarged stills of mouth-watering dishes.

At the very outset of our dinner, we had the good fortune of talking with Chef Pesce about the culinary traditions of his native Genoa .In his hands; the richness of northern Italian cuisine enters the realm of the incomparable. All his pastas are homemade and there is no dependence on red sauces. No matter what you select, whether it be steaks, seafood, pizzas, subs or even chicken wings, the Chef assured us that he uses only the finest and flashest ingredients. His current menu is being expanded and the additions will probably be available by the time this column appears in print.

As you ponder the choices, energize yourself with a glass of El Supremo Malbec ($4.50), an Argentine import that is both robust and fragrant. Our opening House Salad ($5.99) was a visual tour de force and scrumptious to boot. The Crespella Ricotta and Spinach ($5.99) is a silky, flavorsome hand crafted ricotta and spinach crepe enriched with milk, eggs, butter and whipped cream.

Skirt Steak ($16.99) sports a marvelous grilled flavor and a satiny texture that becomes apparent in the effortless way it succumbs to the slightest touch of the fork. The Chef's Vegetable Lasagna ($11.99) is another winner featuring homemade pasta, a rainbow of vegetables and an opulent behamel sauce. One bite and you may never want to go back to meat-based lasagna.

Desserts don't disappoint either The Flan ($3.50) has the glow of creme brulee with a deeply endearing flavor. You will also be pleased with the modest prices (lunch specials start at $5.99). Anyone pressed for time can request take out or delivery. With such a talented chef on board, Toscany is ideally suited to cater your next affair.

Toscany
9711 West Sample Road
(Tel) 954-340-4777

Daily: Lunch and Dinner

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BROWARD

Margarita's Cantina

The Accomplished Cuisine and Other Extras Set It Apart

Paul Griffin's foray into Boynton Beach provokes an immediate "wow" response. From its polished exterior, abundant outdoor seating and capacious interior, the venue is a welcome change from the cramped strip mall Mexican newbies that are popping up throughout the county. In the evening, thousands of lights in the nearby courtyard and plazas create a delightfully festive holiday feeling

Young families, couples of all ages and groups of chic professionals gravitate here in large numbers. They come here for the great offerings and to chat with friends. One major attraction is the reduced price Margaritas ($3) served during the first Happy Hour (4 to 6 pm). The frozen strawberry and mango versions are absolutely first class. The same discounts are available at the late night Happy Hour (10 pm to close).

The staff is another plus. Manager Robin is knowledgeable, personable and truly caring. The waiters chat with you, make you feel welcome and know when to appear without being intrusive.

Corn chips are made fresh every day and the tortillas are rolled on the spot in an open kitchen in the center of the restaurant. The chips were so addictive that we ran through a couple of baskets as we explored our options Fortunately, our server, Victor, provided the needed guidance. First on his list was the Cocktail de Camarones ($8.50) filled with tender crustaceans immersed in chipotle tomato sauce, avocado, cilantro and onion.

Fried Avocado ($7.95)? Yes, it sports a crunchy exterior covering a soft flavorful core and it is partnered with a light chipotle dipping sauce. Next came the Poquito Corn and Crab Tamales ($7.95), heavenly corn packets stuffed with a delectable crab filling.

For the mains, start off with a the hefty Chile Relleno ($12.95), two poblano peppers stuffed with cheese and braised beef, a pairing that is deliciously satisfying. You will want to feast also on the Camarones ($19.95), another signature creation that delivers pan roasted jumbo shrimp touched with a superb vanilla sauce and nestled around a heap of sweet potato-chorizo mash topped with sauted garlic spinach There are numerous other notables such as the sizzling Carne Asada Fajitas ($14.95) overflowing with savory beef and fresh vegetables.

At the finish line, Guava Cheesecake Burrito ($4.95) is a crispy dessert loaded with rich cheesecake and crowned with a scoop of refreshing vanilla bean ice cream. Treat yourself to lunch on Friday and Saturday starting at 11:30 am. Sunday brunch runs from 10 am to 3 pm. A charming room in the rear can accommodate large groups. Margarita's also maintains a complete catering service. For more details, log on to http://www.margaritaskitchencantina.com.

Margarita's Cantina
1500 Gateway Boulevard   
(Tel) 561-244-7335

Lunch: Fri-Sat / Brunch: Sunday / Dinner served daily
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